{"id":1968,"date":"2016-11-24T15:52:18","date_gmt":"2016-11-24T14:52:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/?p=1968"},"modified":"2021-05-01T21:04:40","modified_gmt":"2021-05-01T19:04:40","slug":"koreanska-strefa-zdemilitaryzowana-polnoc-poludnie","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/2016\/11\/24\/koreanska-strefa-zdemilitaryzowana-polnoc-poludnie\/","title":{"rendered":"Korea\u0144ska Strefa Zdemilitaryzowana P\u00f3\u0142noc-Po\u0142udnie"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><em>Jak wygl\u0105da codzienne \u017cycie studenta w Korei Po\u0142udniowej? Co warto zobaczy\u0107 w azjatyckim metropolis? Czy w dobie Internetu mo\u017cna jeszcze prze\u017cy\u0107 szok kulturowy? \u00a0Co czwartek\u00a0serwuj\u0119 moje wra\u017cenia i przemy\u015blenia z Seulu. Uwaga, kuchnia korea\u0144ska bywa pikantna!<\/em><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"1970\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/2016\/11\/24\/koreanska-strefa-zdemilitaryzowana-polnoc-poludnie\/93c7c1d63bbf4dd38a4220f96b8e4552\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/93c7c1d63bbf4dd38a4220f96b8e4552.jpg\" data-orig-size=\"1181,793\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"93c7c1d63bbf4dd38a4220f96b8e4552\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/93c7c1d63bbf4dd38a4220f96b8e4552-1000x671.jpg\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-1970\" title=\"J.S.A., 2000, re\u017c. Park Chan-wook\" src=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/93c7c1d63bbf4dd38a4220f96b8e4552-1024x688.jpg\" alt=\"J.S.A., 2000, re\u017c. Park Chan-wook\" width=\"1000\" height=\"671\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Niech nikt si\u0119 nie da nabra\u0107. Korea\u0144ska strefa zdemilitaryzowana (DMZ) zdemilitaryzowana jest tylko z nazwy. Po obu stronach strefy\u00a0znajduje si\u0119 przestrze\u0144 hiper zmilitaryzowana. Mia\u0142em okazj\u0119 odwiedzi\u0107 DMZ kilkakrotnie. Z\u00a0obu stron granicy.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Demokracja zwyci\u0119\u017cy<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"1974\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/2016\/11\/24\/koreanska-strefa-zdemilitaryzowana-polnoc-poludnie\/_mg_8109\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/MG_8109.jpg\" data-orig-size=\"787,1181\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"Fot. Roman Husarski\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/MG_8109-666x1000.jpg\" class=\"wp-image-1974 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/MG_8109-682x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Fot. Roman Husarski\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Pierwszy raz odwiedzi\u0142em DMZ od strony Po\u0142udnia w 2012 roku. Miejsce, kt\u00f3re Bill Clinton okre\u015bli\u0142 jako: &#8222;najstraszniejsze na ziemi&#8221;, jest jednym z najcz\u0119\u015bciej odwiedzanych w Korei. Moja wizyta niepozbawiona by\u0142a presji narzuconej przez przewodnika i pilnuj\u0105cych wszystkiego \u017co\u0142nierzy. Kilka minutek na stanowisku, komentarz i idziemy dalej. W samej strefie robienie zdj\u0119\u0107 by\u0142o mocno ograniczone. Z pewno\u015bci\u0105 wojskowa atmosfera i ci\u0105g\u0142e ostrze\u017cenia o ryzyku &#8222;komunistycznej prowokacji&#8221; podwy\u017csza\u0142y adrenalin\u0119.<\/p>\n<p>Z punktu widokowego w pobli\u017cu s\u0142ynnego Panmunjom wida\u0107 potiomkinowsk\u0105 wiosk\u0119 Kijeongdong (\uae30\uc815\ub3d9). Jest to bodaj\u017ce jedyne miejsce w KRLD, mo\u017ce poza pa\u0142acami Kim\u00f3w, gdzie stale dostarczany jest pr\u0105d. Wed\u0142ug po\u0142udniowokorea\u0144skiego wywiadu nikt w niej nie mieszka. Zaledwie mile dalej stoi Daeseong-dong, wioska Korei Po\u0142udniowej (w pewien spos\u00f3b r\u00f3wnie\u017c potiomkinowska, bo zasilana dotaktowymi funduszami od dekad). W latach 80. pomi\u0119dzy oboma stronami rozegra\u0142a si\u0119 wojna na&#8230; flagi. Republika Korei postawi\u0142a prawie 100 metrowy maszt flagowy, na co KRLD odpowiedzia\u0142o masztem flagowym o 60 metr\u00f3w wi\u0119kszym (sic!) &#8211; obecnie czwartym co do wielko\u015bci na \u015bwiecie. Teraz ci na po\u0142udniu obracaj\u0105 wszystko w \u017cart i m\u00f3wi\u0105, \u017ce komuni\u015bci maj\u0105 mani\u0119 wielko\u015bci.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1973\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1973\" style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"1973\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/2016\/11\/24\/koreanska-strefa-zdemilitaryzowana-polnoc-poludnie\/_mg_8092\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/MG_8092.jpg\" data-orig-size=\"1181,787\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"_mg_8092\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/MG_8092-1000x666.jpg\" class=\"wp-image-1973\" src=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/MG_8092-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"Fot. Roman Husarski\" width=\"1000\" height=\"666\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1973\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fot. Roman Husarski<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Dobrze zapami\u0119ta\u0142em zwiedzanie tunelu, jednego z czterech odkrytych, potencjalnych tuneli inwazyjnych. Od czasu zimnej wojny, budowanie tuneli to swego rodzaju p\u00f3\u0142nocnokorea\u0144ska specjalno\u015b\u0107 i czytelnik m\u00f3g\u0142by by\u0107 zdumiony, w ilu miejscach na \u015bwiecie mo\u017cna znale\u017a\u0107 tunele &#8222;made by Pyongyang&#8221;. \u017bo\u0142nierz-przewodnik poinformowa\u0142 nas, \u017ce podejrzewaj\u0105 istnienie jeszcze 20 podobnych tuneli w Korei Po\u0142udniowej, kt\u00f3re wci\u0105\u017c czekaj\u0105 na odkrycie. Brzmi gro\u017anie i zapewne o to chodzi.<\/p>\n<p>Dobrze pami\u0119tam przewodnika naszej wycieczki. Co chwila podkre\u015bla\u0142, jaka to Korea Po\u0142udniowa jest najlepsza w tym i w tamtym &#8211; z czego najbardziej kuriozalny by\u0142 tekst o najzdrowszym na \u015bwiecie korea\u0144skim \u017ce\u0144-szeniu, kt\u00f3ry ma by\u0107 znacznie zdrowszy od \u017ce\u0144-szenia japo\u0144skiego i chi\u0144skiego. Zgadnijcie, co us\u0142ysza\u0142em po P\u00f3\u0142nocnej stronie. Tak, ta sama \u015bpiewka zako\u0144czona wizyt\u0105 w sklepie, gdzie szczeg\u00f3lnie wychwalano&#8230; p\u00f3\u0142nocnokorea\u0144ski \u017ce\u0144-sze\u0144.<\/p>\n<p><strong>D\u017cucze\u00a0zwyci\u0119\u017cy<\/strong><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1979\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1979\" style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"1979\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/2016\/11\/24\/koreanska-strefa-zdemilitaryzowana-polnoc-poludnie\/img_1546\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_1546.jpg\" data-orig-size=\"1181,787\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"Fot. Roman Husarski\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Fot. Roman Husarski&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_1546-1000x666.jpg\" class=\"wp-image-1979\" src=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_1546-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"Fot. Roman Husarski\" width=\"1000\" height=\"666\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1979\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fot. Roman Husarski<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Najwi\u0119kszym kontrastem pomi\u0119dzy oboma granicami, jest brak zwiedzaj\u0105cych w Korei P\u00f3\u0142nocnej. Z Pjongjangu jedzie si\u0119 do Panmunjom pust\u0105 drog\u0105. Byli\u015bmy jedyn\u0105 grup\u0105 turyst\u00f3w o tej porze zwiedzaj\u0105c\u0105 DMZ. Oczywi\u015bcie wszystko jest przygotowane dla obcokrajowc\u00f3w, bo zwykli obywatele nie maj\u0105 tu wst\u0119pu.<\/p>\n<p>Najpierw odwiedzili\u015bmy sklepik. Ceny w dolarach i euro. Towary od lalek po propagandowe poczt\u00f3wki i literatur\u0119 (poziom prania m\u00f3zgu: level hard) wymierzon\u0105 w ameryka\u0144ski imperializm. Jak wspomina\u0142em, niema\u0142o tu tradycyjunej medycyny korea\u0144skiej. Gdy niekt\u00f3rzy cz\u0142onkowie z grupy robili zakupy, nasza przewodnik (Brytyjka) pokazywa\u0142a nowego iPhona obecnym na miejscu \u017co\u0142nierzom budz\u0105c ich z letargu. Jak poinformowa\u0142a mnie, co wycieczk\u0119 spotyka tych samych ludzi. Nic dziwnego bior\u0105c pod uwag\u0119, \u017ce s\u0142u\u017cba wojskowa trwa w KRLD 10 lat.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1975\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1975\" style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"1975\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/2016\/11\/24\/koreanska-strefa-zdemilitaryzowana-polnoc-poludnie\/img_1490\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_1490.jpg\" data-orig-size=\"1181,787\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"Fot. Roman Husarski\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Fot. Roman Husarski&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_1490-1000x666.jpg\" class=\"wp-image-1975\" src=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_1490-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"Fot. Roman Husarski\" width=\"1000\" height=\"666\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1975\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fot. Roman Husarski<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1978\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1978\" style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"1978\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/2016\/11\/24\/koreanska-strefa-zdemilitaryzowana-polnoc-poludnie\/img_1538\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_1538.jpg\" data-orig-size=\"1181,787\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"img_1538\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Fot. Roman Husarski&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_1538-1000x666.jpg\" class=\"wp-image-1978\" src=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_1538-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"Fot. Roman Husarski\" width=\"1000\" height=\"666\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1978\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fot. Roman Husarski<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Kolejny kontrast to brak \u015bwi\u0105ty\u0144 oraz pomnik\u00f3w wszelkiej ma\u015bci. Po po\u0142udniowej stronie jest ich mn\u00f3stwo, eksperymentalnych i religijnych. Wszystkie krzycz\u0105 o pok\u00f3j. Na P\u00f3\u0142nocy jedynie kilka smutnych plakat\u00f3w propagandowych. Po zakupach czeka\u0142a nas ma\u0142a wizyta w &#8222;Muzeum Pokoju&#8221; gdzie us\u0142yszeli\u015bmy p\u00f3\u0142nocnokorea\u0144sk\u0105 wersj\u0119 wydarze\u0144. Zwr\u00f3ci\u0142em uwag\u0119 na ciekawy fotomonta\u017c w muzeum, gdzie kobieca twarz ameryka\u0144skiej \u017co\u0142nierz zosta\u0142a sklonowana. Czy P\u00f3\u0142noc chcia\u0142a w ten spos\u00f3b osi\u0105gn\u0105\u0107, ci\u0119\u017cko powiedzie\u0107. W ko\u0144cu korea\u0144skie kobiety, r\u00f3wnie\u017c bra\u0142y udzia\u0142 w dzia\u0142aniach wojennych.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1977\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1977\" style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"1977\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/2016\/11\/24\/koreanska-strefa-zdemilitaryzowana-polnoc-poludnie\/img_1523\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_1523.jpg\" data-orig-size=\"1181,786\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"Fot. Roman Husarski\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Fot. Roman Husarski&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_1523-1000x666.jpg\" class=\"wp-image-1977\" src=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_1523-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"Fot. Roman Husarski\" width=\"1000\" height=\"666\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1977\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fot. Roman Husarski<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1976\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1976\" style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"1976\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/2016\/11\/24\/koreanska-strefa-zdemilitaryzowana-polnoc-poludnie\/img_1502\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_1502.jpg\" data-orig-size=\"1181,787\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"img_1502\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_1502-1000x666.jpg\" class=\"wp-image-1976\" src=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_1502-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"Fot. Roman Husarski\" width=\"1000\" height=\"666\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1976\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ten Pan od lat obs\u0142uguje setki wycieczek do DMZ i znajdziecie go na wielu zdj\u0119ciach w sieci. <br \/>Fot. Roman Husarski<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><strong>Trzecie podej\u015bcie\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>B\u0119d\u0105c znowu w Korei Po\u0142udniowej, postanowi\u0142em ponownie odwiedzi\u0107 granic\u0119. Tym razem zamiast do turystycznego Panmunjom wybra\u0142em si\u0119 do Taepung (\ud0dc\ud48d\uc804\ub9dd\ub300). Nazw\u0119 punkt odziedziczy\u0142 od oddzia\u0142u &#8222;Tajfun&#8221;, kt\u00f3ry kontrolowa\u0142 to wzg\u00f3rze. Miejsce znajduje si\u0119 \u00a0wzniesieniu Suribong i daje doskona\u0142y widok na DMZ. Bazy, zar\u00f3wno KRLD, jak i Republiki Korea\u0144skiej wida\u0107 jak na d\u0142oni. Topografia zapiera dech w piersi.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1980\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1980\" style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"1980\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/2016\/11\/24\/koreanska-strefa-zdemilitaryzowana-polnoc-poludnie\/img_7139-2\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_7139-2.jpg\" data-orig-size=\"1181,728\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"Fot. Roman Husarski\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Samej strefy sfotografowa\u0107 nie mog\u0142em, ale po drugiej stronie przyroda r\u00f3wnie\u017c powala. &lt;br \/&gt;Fot. Roman Husarski&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_7139-2-1000x616.jpg\" class=\"wp-image-1980\" src=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_7139-2-1024x631.jpg\" alt=\"Samej strefy sfotografowa\u0107 nie mog\u0142em, ale po drugiej stronie przyroda r\u00f3wnie\u017c powala. Fot. Roman Husarski\" width=\"1000\" height=\"616\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1980\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Samej strefy zdemilitaryzowanej sfotografowa\u0107 nie mog\u0142em, ale za plecami mia\u0142em niemniej ciekaw\u0105 przyrod\u0119 Korei Po\u0142udniowej. <br \/>Fot. Roman Husarski<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Na szczycie by\u0142oby cicho, gdyby nie dochodz\u0105ca z oddali propaganda Korei P\u00f3\u0142nocnej. W takim miejscu d\u017awi\u0119ki opery robi\u0105 przedziwne wra\u017cenie. Obserwuj\u0105c przez lunet\u0119 stanowiska KRLD, mia\u0142em szcz\u0119\u015bcie zauwa\u017cy\u0107 kilku \u017co\u0142nierzy, kt\u00f3rzy wyszli z bazy. Sprawiali wyj\u0105tkowo marne wra\u017cenie &#8211; a mo\u017ce tylko tak mi si\u0119 wydawa\u0142o? Z pewno\u015bci\u0105 jeden z nich chodzi\u0142 o kulach.<\/p>\n<p>Na stanowisku zwraca uwag\u0119 pi\u0119kna buddyjska dzwonnica i pomnik Matki Bo\u017cej oraz prawd\u0119 m\u00f3wi\u0105c, raczej nie do ko\u0144ca udane memoria\u0142y wojenne. Nic nie poradz\u0119, \u017ce przypominaj\u0105 mi plastikowe zabawki z piaskownicy.<\/p>\n<p>Szczerze polecam osobom zastanawiaj\u0105cym si\u0119 nad odwiedzeniem DMZ punkt widokowy Taepung. Nikt was nie b\u0119dzie pogania\u0142, a atmosfera sk\u0142ania do refleksji. Ja pojecha\u0142em tam ze znajomymi samochodem, ale mo\u017cna te\u017c dotrze\u0107 do Taepung transportem publicznym. Z Yeonchon nale\u017cy wzi\u0105\u0107 autobus do Hoengsan-ri, a potem pozostaje nam 30-minutowy trekking.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1982\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1982\" style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"1982\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/2016\/11\/24\/koreanska-strefa-zdemilitaryzowana-polnoc-poludnie\/img_7147\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_7147.jpg\" data-orig-size=\"1181,787\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"Fot. Roman Husarski\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Fot. Roman Husarski&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_7147-1000x666.jpg\" class=\"wp-image-1982\" src=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_7147-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"Fot. Roman Husarski\" width=\"1000\" height=\"666\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1982\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fot. Roman Husarski<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"1981\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/2016\/11\/24\/koreanska-strefa-zdemilitaryzowana-polnoc-poludnie\/img_7144\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_7144.jpg\" data-orig-size=\"787,1181\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"Fot. Roman Husarski\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Fot. Roman Husarski&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_7144-666x1000.jpg\" class=\"size-large wp-image-1981\" src=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_7144-682x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Fot. Roman Husarski\" \/><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1984\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1984\" style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"1984\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/2016\/11\/24\/koreanska-strefa-zdemilitaryzowana-polnoc-poludnie\/img_7145\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_7145.jpg\" data-orig-size=\"1181,787\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"Fot. Roman Husarski\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Fot. Roman Husarski&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_7145-1000x666.jpg\" class=\"wp-image-1984\" src=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_7145-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"Fot. Roman Husarski\" width=\"1000\" height=\"666\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1984\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fot. Roman Husarski<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1985\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1985\" style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"1985\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/2016\/11\/24\/koreanska-strefa-zdemilitaryzowana-polnoc-poludnie\/img_7146\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_7146.jpg\" data-orig-size=\"1181,787\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"Fot. Roman Husarski\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Fot. Roman Husarski&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_7146-1000x666.jpg\" class=\"wp-image-1985\" src=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/11\/IMG_7146-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"Fot. Roman Husarski\" width=\"1000\" height=\"666\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1985\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fot. Roman Husarski<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Jak wygl\u0105da codzienne \u017cycie studenta w Korei Po\u0142udniowej? Co warto zobaczy\u0107 w azjatyckim metropolis? Czy w dobie Internetu mo\u017cna jeszcze prze\u017cy\u0107 szok kulturowy? \u00a0Co czwartek\u00a0serwuj\u0119 moje wra\u017cenia i przemy\u015blenia z Seulu. Uwaga, kuchnia korea\u0144ska bywa pikantna! Niech nikt si\u0119 nie da nabra\u0107. Korea\u0144ska strefa zdemilitaryzowana (DMZ) zdemilitaryzowana jest tylko z nazwy. Po obu stronach strefy\u00a0znajduje &hellip; <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1970,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[17,18],"tags":[260,242,340,261,139],"class_list":["post-1968","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-korea-polnocna","category-korea-poludniowa","tag-dmz","tag-dziennik-seulski","tag-korea-beyond-k-pop","tag-panmunjom","tag-pjongjang"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Korea\u0144ska Strefa Zdemilitaryzowana P\u00f3\u0142noc-Po\u0142udnie - W\u0142\u00f3czykij - Roman Husarski<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/2016\/11\/24\/koreanska-strefa-zdemilitaryzowana-polnoc-poludnie\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"pl_PL\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Korea\u0144ska Strefa Zdemilitaryzowana P\u00f3\u0142noc-Po\u0142udnie - W\u0142\u00f3czykij - Roman Husarski\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Jak wygl\u0105da codzienne \u017cycie studenta w Korei Po\u0142udniowej? Co warto zobaczy\u0107 w azjatyckim metropolis? Czy w dobie Internetu mo\u017cna jeszcze prze\u017cy\u0107 szok kulturowy? \u00a0Co czwartek\u00a0serwuj\u0119 moje wra\u017cenia i przemy\u015blenia z Seulu. Uwaga, kuchnia korea\u0144ska bywa pikantna! Niech nikt si\u0119 nie da nabra\u0107. Korea\u0144ska strefa zdemilitaryzowana (DMZ) zdemilitaryzowana jest tylko z nazwy. 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