{"id":272,"date":"2012-09-19T18:27:11","date_gmt":"2012-09-19T16:27:11","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/rhusarski.wordpress.com\/?p=272"},"modified":"2022-03-20T15:45:46","modified_gmt":"2022-03-20T14:45:46","slug":"syf-kila-i-manila","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/2012\/09\/19\/syf-kila-i-manila\/","title":{"rendered":"Ci\u0119\u017car Manili"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"\"
Fot. Roman Husarski<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Zobacz moj\u0105 fotorelacj\u0119 z Navotas<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n

Dziewczynka podrzuci\u0142a w powietrze ludzk\u0105 czaszk\u0119 i odbieg\u0142a z krzykiem. Dooko\u0142a walaj\u0105 si\u0119 ludzkie szcz\u0105tki i tony \u015bmieci. To slumsy na cmentarzu.
\nDzielnic n\u0119dzy nie trzeba d\u0142ugo szuka\u0107, bo w\u0142a\u015bciwie wi\u0119kszo\u015b\u0107 Manili je przypomina. To miasto ostrych kontrast\u00f3w. Blaszane domki kryj\u0105 si\u0119 na ka\u017cdym rogu, a tony \u015bmieci le\u017c\u0105 nawet na g\u0142\u00f3wnym wybrze\u017cu w pobli\u017cu b\u0142yszcz\u0105cych wie\u017cowc\u00f3w. Nawet 1\/3\u00a0 dwunastomilionowej spo\u0142eczno\u015bci mo\u017ce \u017cy\u0107 w slumsach.<\/p>\n

Znajduj\u0119 si\u0119 na ma\u0142ej wyspie Navas – to tu zdesperowani ludzie, nie mog\u0105c znale\u017a\u0107 lepszej lokalizacji, zamieszkali na cmentarzu. Otacza mnie z ka\u017cdej strony t\u0142umek dzieci, z rado\u015bci\u0105 pozuj\u0105c mi do zdj\u0119\u0107. Atmosfera jest zaskakuj\u0105co weso\u0142a, cho\u0107 miejsce przera\u017ca. Zw\u0142aszcza gdy widzi si\u0119 nagie brzd\u0105ce taplaj\u0105ce si\u0119 w \u015bmieciach. Mieszka\u0144cy cmentarza okazuj\u0105 si\u0119 zaskakuj\u0105co mili, niekt\u00f3rzy wydaj\u0105 si\u0119 zmieszani, inni mnie pozdrawiaj\u0105, krzycz\u0105c: „hey Joe!” (pozosta\u0142o\u015b\u0107 po ameryka\u0144skiej wizycie na Filipinach). Zdumiewaj\u0105ce, \u017ce nikt mnie tu nie prosi o pieni\u0105dze, co w centrum miasta jest nagminne.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Rykszarz ze Slums\u00f3w.
Fot. Roman Husarski<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Wchodz\u0105c, widzia\u0142em przeje\u017cd\u017caj\u0105cy w pobli\u017cu w\u00f3z pancerny. Pobliski bank pilnuje a\u017c pi\u0119ciu ochroniarzy, wyposa\u017conych w karabiny maszynowe. Gangster\u00f3w jest co prawda w Manili sporo i zapewne chowaj\u0105 si\u0119 w slumsach. Jednak znajomy mieszkaniec Manili\u00a0m\u00f3wi\u0142, \u017ce nie brak ich te\u017c\u00a0przy bogatych dzielnicach – takich jak Makati.<\/p>\n

Poznani przez\u00a0couchsurfera mieszka\u0144cy Filipin zdumiewaj\u0105 mnie swoim brakiem poj\u0119cia na temat tego co dzieje si\u0119 na obrze\u017cach miasta. A mo\u017ce jest inaczej. Mo\u017ce nie chc\u0105 wiedzie\u0107. Enklaw\u0119 daj\u0105 nowoczesne dzielnice z Makati na czele. Znajomy opowiada\u0142 mi, \u017ce raz przez przypadek jego nowobogacka kole\u017canka przez przypadek opu\u015bci\u0142a stref\u0119 ochron\u0105 – sko\u0144czy\u0142o si\u0119 p\u0142aczem. A mieszka na Filipinach kilkana\u015bcie lat. To dlatego tak popularne s\u0105 tu taks\u00f3wki.<\/p>\n

Opuszczaj\u0105c dzielnic\u0119, czuj\u0119 ci\u0119\u017car w g\u0142owie. Jestem r\u00f3wnie\u017c dos\u0142ownie brudny. Poprzedniego dnia pada\u0142o, wi\u0119c w niekt\u00f3rych miejscach trzeba by\u0142o przej\u015b\u0107 przez rozlewiska pe\u0142ne odchod\u00f3w i \u015bmieci. W pobli\u017cu nie ma oczywi\u015bcie publicznych toalet. Zreszt\u0105 nawet w centrum Manili mo\u017cna si\u0119 natkn\u0105\u0107 na ludzi wypr\u00f3\u017cniaj\u0105cych si\u0119\u00a0na ulicy. Ciekawe czy z\u0142apa\u0142em wszy? Nie mog\u0142em jednak nie pokr\u0119ci\u0107 si\u0119 z dzie\u0107mi, nie przybi\u0107 im pi\u0105tek. W g\u0142owie kot\u0142owa\u0142a mi si\u0119 mieszanina pyta\u0144. Czy naprawd\u0119 nie ma innego wyj\u015bcia? Ile cz\u0142owiek jest w\u00a0stanie wytrzyma\u0107? W jaki spos\u00f3b mo\u017cna odpowiedzie\u0107 na t\u0119 tragedi\u0119? Mieszka\u0144cy slumsu w Navas przyjechali do Manili ze wsi w poszukiwaniu pracy, a sko\u0144czyli, \u015bpi\u0105c na rozkopanych grobach. Dlaczego nie opuszcz\u0105 tego koszmarnego miejsca? Czy gdyby wiedzieli, co ich czeka, to opu\u015bciliby wsie? Ilu z nich wci\u0105\u017c ma\u00a0nadzieje na zmian\u0119 swojej sytuacji? Wiele pyta\u0144 i zapewne wiele odpowiedzi.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Fot. Roman Husarski<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"\" \u00a0\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"
Fot. Roman Husarski<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Zobacz moj\u0105 fotorelacj\u0119 z Navotas. Dziewczynka podrzuci\u0142a w powietrze ludzk\u0105 czaszk\u0119 i odbieg\u0142a z krzykiem. Dooko\u0142a walaj\u0105 si\u0119 ludzkie szcz\u0105tki i tony \u015bmieci. To slumsy na cmentarzu. Dzielnic n\u0119dzy nie trzeba d\u0142ugo szuka\u0107, bo w\u0142a\u015bciwie wi\u0119kszo\u015b\u0107 Manili je przypomina. To miasto ostrych kontrast\u00f3w. Blaszane domki kryj\u0105 si\u0119 na ka\u017cdym rogu, a tony \u015bmieci le\u017c\u0105 nawet … <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2080,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[427],"tags":[429,159,264],"class_list":["post-272","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-inne-podroze","tag-filipiny","tag-manila","tag-navotas"],"yoast_head":"\nCi\u0119\u017car Manili - W\u0142\u00f3czykij - Roman Husarski<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/wloczykij.org\/blog\/2012\/09\/19\/syf-kila-i-manila\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"pl_PL\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Ci\u0119\u017car Manili - W\u0142\u00f3czykij - Roman Husarski\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Zobacz moj\u0105 fotorelacj\u0119 z Navotas. Dziewczynka podrzuci\u0142a w powietrze ludzk\u0105 czaszk\u0119 i odbieg\u0142a z krzykiem. Dooko\u0142a walaj\u0105 si\u0119 ludzkie szcz\u0105tki i tony \u015bmieci. To slumsy na cmentarzu. Dzielnic n\u0119dzy nie trzeba d\u0142ugo szuka\u0107, bo w\u0142a\u015bciwie wi\u0119kszo\u015b\u0107 Manili je przypomina. To miasto ostrych kontrast\u00f3w. 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